For the record I ordered a #8 turnout starter kit, plus file, jewelers saw, and track gauge in Code 55. I've now used it to make 5 turnouts, three code 55, and two with Atlas Code 80 stripped from flex. I've mounted three of those to QuickSticks.
Overall, the entire package was quite nice. It started with the impressively packed parts and continued to the clear, video instructions. The effort level overall to make a turnout was about what I expected, in some areas easier, in some areas harder than I expected. Here are my thoughts in no particular order:
Cutting the slots in the PC Board ties to electrically isolate seems rather, well tedious. I've tried a file and a dremel, and both leave marks that show up after painting. I think I'm going to have to fill them back with some sort of glue to get the look I want. Maybe it's a technique thing; but it seems there must be an easier way. Indeed, I ask myself if they could not be sold pre-notched, that is do a normal PC Board etching process as you would to make a computer board with the small grooves etched away. Then slice them into ties. You're probably thinking too many different styles to make right, well, consider this idea with the next point and I think it might work....
I think I'd actually prefer if all the PC Board tie slots were "full length" so rather than cut them prior to building the turnout they can be cut when done. If the QuickSticks were also routed to accommodate this while gluing triming the ties to the exact length would be a final step, done with nippers and quick stick ties as easy guides. As the video demonstraits in cutting off the throwbar this is far easier than cutting 9-12 different lengths to go in the jig. With some clever offsetting this could make my previous idea work better and reduce the number of etching styles significantly.
It does seem to me another PC Board tie is needed "past the frog". I had one rail pop off after I cut it with the jewelers saw, the last PC Board tie delaminated. Since it needs to be grooved in the center there is very little holding on the rail, particularly if you want to leave it long to hook into other track work. Durability is also a huge concern to me as I want to use these on NTrak where hand laid track is seen as fragile. While I can hand solder one in place this messes up the QuickSticks. It seems to me the quicksticks need to be revised to have one more optional PC Board tie at the end, like the H and S ties, and fixtures with an extra slot so people like me can add that one more PC tie.
The "Spray Bomb" is ugly. At least with the paint I used. I was hoping it would be that simple, but no, I'm actually going to have to learn how to use my airbrush.
The jewelers saw seems to "grab" for the first 3-4 cuts, then works real good. When using a new blade cut a bit of scrap rail twice first and it works a ton smoother.
Filing the stock rails is a PITA. I need to get a StockAid tool and try that. I don't have a sander like in the videos, and somehow missed that need before I ordered my kit. I've tried hand files and a dremel, and neither work to my satisfaction and are both quite difficult.
Atlas Code 80 rail works fine in the ME Code 55 fixture (same rail base), and using it in my "Code 40-55" PointForm makes great frogs but crappy points. I just can't get the point ends sharp enough. I'm going to have to find a solution as for my current project I need Code 80 turnouts. I don't know if I just need the Code 83 PointForm (since that is set up for ME Code 83 with a different profile) or what. I think it does have something to do with the shape of the rail. It might be nice for Fast Tracks to develop a one or two page technote on using Atlas Code 80 rail in N scale fixtures.
I'm having only ok luck with Pilobond. I believe I'm following directions (other than handing the next day, rather than 48 hours later). I virtually always have at least one small segment of ties just fall off, even though the others seem quite secure. Again, since durability is a concern this is not sitting well with me. It may be I'm not getting the base of the rail clean enough (left over flux and stuff) since at least one I didn't clean as I wasn't intending to use it in a layout.
I tried acid flux and my kester "no clean" electronics flux. I see no difference on these N Scale parts. Since the kester I can get in pen form it's much more convenient to apply.
The jig does act as a major heat sink. Soldering two bits of flex track together with a rail joiner I can put my iron (80W weller solder station) on the outside of the rail and then touch the solder to the inside of the rail less than a second later, and it flows through the joiner (which has flux in it) perfect. Total time on work 1.5 seconds max. With the jig, even if I leave my iron on the side of the rail for 5 seconds I can't touch the solder to the other side and get it to flow. The aluminum just wicks away too much heat. I wonder if the grooves were cut deeper for the rail, but not the ties, if the heat wouldn't wick away so fast. It would remove the bottom of the rail from being in contact, and just leave the sides. It's not a big deal, I use the small dab of solder on the tip, touch the tip to the PC tie method and it works great, but it would be nice to able to get it to flow under nicely all in one shot.
On the two point rails the videos show filing the little bevel on the ends by the frog. That's quite prototypical, lots of real switches look like that. However, lots also have a flair, like the guard rails. It would be nice if the groove was cut to allow the flair or the straight rail, the flair could be made with the same notches on the end as the guard rails and then you could choose on a switch by switch basis to flair the end or file the bevel on it.
It would be nice if the notches to flair the guard rail were about 2x as deep, for safety.
Has anyone figured out what shades of paint match Atlas Tie Black, or ME Tie Brown? Anyone tried ME rail weathering solution on a switch?